Sunday, September 11, 2016

Cambodia Day 2: It's my BIRTHDAY!

37 never felt so good.  I used to dislike my birthday but in the last 2 years, I finally feel comfortable in my own skin.  And this birthday will be one for the books.

Our flight was mid-day so we were able to have a leisurely breakfast.  And oh man, were we grateful for that because it was delicious.  Breakfast was included in our package and at the adjoining French patisserie and café. I loved the quirky terrarium centre pieces and it was all-you-can-eat so we asked for the croissants to keep coming! 


Traffic is terrible in Phnom Penh.
It took nearly an hour to go 10k!
Here’s a funny story about our flight.  We wanted a budget trip but were short on time so I researched Phnom Penh to Siem Reap by boat and bus then as a last resort looked at the one airline: Cambodia Angkor Air.  It was $9 USD ($34 USD with taxes)!  I was bit concerned on exactly what we were flying on but it was a nice plane with business class too!  I took the opportunity to nap on the 40 minute flight.


On arrival in Siem Reap, our driver met us with an A/C car and Angkor beer.  Hey, it’s my birthday!  Again, we organised to stay with our driver for the rest of our time in Siem Reap.  He was very punctual and looked after us with cold water daily and was like a protective big brother (more on this later – see Day 3 Ta Prohm).
Cheers!
On our first night, we splurged for my birthday and stayed at The Golden Temple Hotel.  And it did not disappoint (my plug for Siem Reap accommodation).  We were greeted with refreshing towels and a full snack plate while we were being checked-in.  Our room did not disappoint.  Our room opened to the pool (see Day 3).  We unpacked and quickly organised the next day – the hotel package included a khmer lunch set, take-away picnic set, and 1 hour khmer massage!  Then our driver came back, this time in a tuk-tuk to take us into the Temples of Angkor.




First stop was our temple passes.  This was in a new ticketing complex and very well organised.  The facilities were very clean and well-posted.  A photo is taken and printed on your pass.  There are multiple check-points throughout Angkor.
Road to Angkor Wat
Angkor is peaceful and so green.  The roads are dotted with small villages, stalls selling souvenirs and cold drinks. 
A wild monkey strolls along the moat inside Angkor Wat
Angkor Thom (late 12th c)


We were let off in front of Angkor Thom (“Great City”), South Gate.  Angkor Thom was one of the largest khmer cities and was the capital until the 17th century.  The gate is a magnificent start to temple touring.  The approach to the gate, crossing the moat, is lined by 2 rows of large figures each carrying the body of a 7-headed serpent (naga)  On the left are gods and on the right are demons (asuras).  The use of the naga balustrades lining the approach to the temple across the moat is to link the world of men to the world of the gods.  The gate itself is carved with 4 faces like Bayon.
Naga guarding Angkor Thom

Look!  I'm at Angkor Wat!





Phnom Bakheng (1186)

Disclaimer: I don’t normally just ride on elephants without doing some research first.  I did try but had a hard time finding any information.  I think this is because of the no ride activist constantly shutting down their website?  There are elephants at the base of Phnom Bakheng to ride up and down if you choose.  It was my birthday and how many people do you know that can say “I rode an elephant in Angkor Wat”?   We did have a look at the elephants and the mahouts before we went ahead with our ride.  Our mahout had nothing but his phone on him.  There was no hook and he didn’t even wear shoes!  Our elephant seemed happy and he was allowed to stop to graze the plants along with path if he liked.

At the top, we found a long line!  No wonder our driver wanted us there by 4pm for a 6pm sunset! Only 300 people are allowed on the summit at one time.  We just made it to the top for sunset. 
Our golden ticket!  Phnom Bakheng pass
Sue getting ready to ascend to the top
Other than being a popular place to watch the sunset, the temple itself was not in great condition with just the shell of the central tower remaining.  Phnom Bakheng was the State temple of the first city at Angkor, late 9th or early 10th century. 

Happy birthday to me!

Chanrey Tree
We had dinner at Chanrey Tree, a popular Khmer restaurant that was recommended to us by several locals.  It did not disappoint.  We rested our weary feet and cooled down over cocktails.  The sad thing was, that was just the tip of the heat we experienced today (being late afternoon by the time we arrived at the temples).  Our favourite dish was the roast chicken in honey, rice brandy, young jackfruit and lemongrass.

After dinner, the skies were clear so we walked back to the hotel stopping by the market stalls near Pub Street to score some bargains.

Back at the hotel, I was surprised by the Golden Temple Hotel staff singing me Happy Birthday and a cake!


We turned in for the night as we had an early start the next morning for sunrise.

Step count: 14,834 (11.57 km)

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