Cambodia Day 2: It's my BIRTHDAY!

37 never felt so good.  I used to dislike my birthday but in the last 2 years, I finally feel comfortable in my own skin.  And this birthday will be one for the books.

Our flight was mid-day so we were able to have a leisurely breakfast.  And oh man, were we grateful for that because it was delicious.  Breakfast was included in our package and at the adjoining French patisserie and café. I loved the quirky terrarium centre pieces and it was all-you-can-eat so we asked for the croissants to keep coming! 

Traffic is terrible in Phnom Penh.
It took nearly an hour to go 10k!

Here’s a funny story about our flight.  We wanted a budget trip but were short on time so I researched Phnom Penh to Siem Reap by boat and bus then as a last resort looked at the one airline: Cambodia Angkor Air.  It was $9 USD ($34 USD with taxes)!  I was bit concerned on exactly what we were flying on but it was a nice plane with business class too!  I took the opportunity to nap on the 40 minute flight.

On arrival in Siem Reap, our driver met us with an A/C car and Angkor beer.  Hey, it’s my birthday!  Again, we organised to stay with our driver for the rest of our time in Siem Reap.  He was very punctual and looked after us with cold water daily and was like a protective big brother (more on this later – see Day 3 Ta Prohm).

Cheers!

On our first night, we splurged for my birthday and stayed at The Golden Temple Hotel.  And it did not disappoint (my plug for Siem Reap accommodation).  We were greeted with refreshing towels and a full snack plate while we were being checked-in.  Our room did not disappoint.  Our room opened to the pool (see Day 3).  We unpacked and quickly organised the next day – the hotel package included a khmer lunch set, take-away picnic set, and 1 hour khmer massage!  Then our driver came back, this time in a tuk-tuk to take us into the Temples of Angkor.

First stop was our temple passes.  This was in a new ticketing complex and very well organised.  The facilities were very clean and well-posted.  A photo is taken and printed on your pass.  There are multiple check-points throughout Angkor.

Road to Angkor Wat

Angkor is peaceful and so green.  The roads are dotted with small villages, stalls selling souvenirs and cold drinks. 

A wild monkey strolls along the moat inside Angkor Wat

Angkor Thom (late 12^th c)

We were let off in front of Angkor Thom (“Great City”), South Gate.  Angkor Thom was one of the largest khmer cities and was the capital until the 17^th century.  The gate is a magnificent start to temple touring.  The approach to the gate, crossing the moat, is lined by 2 rows of large figures each carrying the body of a 7-headed serpent (naga)  On the left are gods and on the right are demons (asuras).  The use of the naga balustrades lining the approach to the temple across the moat is to link the world of men to the world of the gods.  The gate itself is carved with 4 faces like Bayon.

Naga guarding Angkor Thom

Look!  I'm at Angkor Wat!

Phnom Bakheng (1186)

Disclaimer: I don’t normally just ride on elephants without doing some research first.  I did try but had a hard time finding any information.  I think this is because of the no ride activist constantly shutting down their website?  There are elephants at the base of Phnom Bakheng to ride up and down if you choose.  It was my birthday and how many people do you know that can say “I rode an elephant in Angkor Wat”?   We did have a look at the elephants and the mahouts before we went ahead with our ride.  Our mahout had nothing but his phone on him.  There was no hook and he didn’t even wear shoes!  Our elephant seemed happy and he was allowed to stop to graze the plants along with path if he liked.

At the top, we found a long line!  No wonder our driver wanted us there by 4pm for a 6pm sunset! Only 300 people are allowed on the summit at one time.  We just made it to the top for sunset. 

Our golden ticket!  Phnom Bakheng pass

Sue getting ready to ascend to the top

Other than being a popular place to watch the sunset, the temple itself was not in great condition with just the shell of the central tower remaining.  Phnom Bakheng was the State temple of the first city at Angkor, late 9^th or early 10^th century. 

Happy birthday to me!

Chanrey Tree

We had dinner at Chanrey Tree, a popular Khmer restaurant that was recommended to us by several locals.  It did not disappoint.  We rested our weary feet and cooled down over cocktails.  The sad thing was, that was just the tip of the heat we experienced today (being late afternoon by the time we arrived at the temples).  Our favourite dish was the roast chicken in honey, rice brandy, young jackfruit and lemongrass.

After dinner, the skies were clear so we walked back to the hotel stopping by the market stalls near Pub Street to score some bargains.

Back at the hotel, I was surprised by the Golden Temple Hotel staff singing me Happy Birthday and a cake!

We turned in for the night as we had an early start the next morning for sunrise.

Step count: 14,834 (11.57 km)

Cambodia Day 1

DMK - PNH

So why Cambodia?

• It’s my birthday!
• It’s on my Bucket List
• Best traveled without young children
• Bonus: It’s somewhere my colleague hasn’t been before either – new experience for both of us!

I have thousands of photos over the very short 5 days so each day will have its own post.  This post covers 24 hours in Phnom Penh.  At times it was a very confronting day.

Warning: this post contains some graphic (skulls and excavation sites) however I have not posted any photos containing photos of torture. Please skip to Day 2 if you prefer not to read this. 

Day 1: Phnom Penh

This morning we had an early start (4AM transfer) to catch our flight to Phnom Penh.  We flew from the regional airport which was an experience in itself.  It was pure chaos and the first time arriving late worked to our advantage.  We were rushed through the check-in line and into immigration where we found a scene similar to Lord of the Flies.  There was shouting, screaming, pushing, and queue jumping.  I was too scared I’d lose my arm if I took my phone out to capture this.

Our first glimpse of Cambodia!

With Starbucks in our hands, we were ready to board!  We both caught up on our missed sleep on the short 1 hour 15 minute flight.  On arrival, we grabbed a taxi to our hotel so we could offload our luggage.  The taxi driver was informative and the car had A/C and was clean so we hired him for the rest of the day $50 USD. 

First impressions:

•           It’s hot.
•           There is a lot of road chaos and traffic.  Cars, tuk-tuks, motos… many riders on a moto.  Some of the roads were paved, some weren’t.  There were few road signs and many motos driving on the sidewalk.  It was dusty too. 
•           It’s seriously hot.  Even with the A/C in the car, you can feel the sun searing through.  But it’s also rainy season.  We were told it rained and flooded the night before.  We probably should have taken more note of this (see below).

Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre (The Killing Fields)

Choeung Ek is 17k from Phnom Penh but with the roads as they are, is a 45 minute drive.  It was here that the Khmer Rouge regime executed over a million people between 1975 and 1979.  Mass graves have been excavated uncovering 8,895 bodies. 

The entry fee includes an audio tour of the site which was well done and includes stories from survivors and musical scores.  You go through each ‘stop’ at your own speed.  It’s a haunting place.  It’s difficult to process the horrors that occurred here.  You can still see bone fragments and clothing rags on the grave sites and along the pathways after heavy rain.

Visitors leave friendship bracelets at the excavation sites 

Grave site where rags and  bone fragments can still be seen

The tour concludes in the Memorial Stupa which stacks skulls and bones arranged by gender and age, as high as you can see (62m).  Many of the skulls show blunt force trauma to save bullets.

The Memorial Stupa

Stacks on stacks

We stopped briefly for lunch at Khmer Boom to try the local cuisine.  We didn’t think much of it.  It was very similar to Thai food but lacking the flavour. 

Tuol Sleng Museum (Security Prison 21, also known as S-21)

We finished our sight-seeing day at S-21, another heart-wrenching site.  Once a high school, the 5 buildings were converted into cell blocks in 1975; later, becoming the largest centre of detention and torture in Cambodia.  Between 1975 and 1978 more than 17,000 people were interrogated and imprisoned here.  They were later transported to Choeung Ek to be executed.   S-21 is now a museum, having been preserved as it was left when the Khmer Rouge was driven out in 1979.

From inside S-21

The Security of Regulations

We arrived in front of steel gates and several rows of barbed wire. As with Choeung Ek, entry includes an audio tour.  The audio includes recordings of survivor accounts (only 7 known and 3 currently alive) and from the genocide tribunal.  The tour is confronting. Seats are located outside the cell blocks in the courtyard if at any time you feel upset (and I did). 

The first ‘stop’ is in front of 14 white tombs.  Fresh flowers laid on top of each tomb from the mornings blessings.  We learn that these white tombs are from the last 14 victims found tortured to death as the Vietnamese arm liberated Phnom Penh.  Photographs of their gruesome deaths in the rooms they were found hang in cell block A.

As you move through each of the cell blocks, photographs of the prisoners cover wall after wall, room after room.   Building C holds the once large classrooms divided into small cells for the prisoners, still with shackles cemented into the floor.  Building D holds instruments of torture and other memorabilia.  In addition, some of the floors hold special exhibits.

Wooden cells.  I found it very difficult to walk through the cells,
deeply feeling the oppression and fear still within the walls.

The width of the cells
(I couldn't stretch my arms across)

Special Exhibit: The Sorrow & Struggle of Women -
Forced Marriage during the Khmer Rouge Period

The tour concludes in the center courtyard where a memorial now stands.

Never will we forget the crimes committed during the Democratic Kampachea Regime.

As we were leaving, a survivor, Chum Mey, was signing books.  Chum Mey survived 2 years of torture at S-21 and witnessed the execution of his wife and 4^th newborn son.  His life was spared because he was highly skilled in repairing machines for Pol Pot’s soldiers. 

After being on the go since 3:30AM, we decided to call it a day and head to our hotel for the night.  It was also starting to rain.

If you ever find yourself in Phnom Penh, I highly recommend The White Mansion.  Architecturally it’s beautiful (former American embassy) and amenities were perfect.  They provide you with a local smart phone which is pre-programmed to reach Reception (this came in handy later!)  Our room was spacious with a shared balcony.  We had local fruit awaiting us and mini-bar (non-alcoholic) was included.

The White Mansion

The lobby

Foyer to our room

Lap pool

I had a refreshing swim in the rain while Sue had a cat nap.  For dinner, we decided to go to the FCC (a must in Phnom Penh).  We walked… er, swam the 1.5k there.  We were told it was 800m and a 10 min walk.  No.

Riverfront in the rain

We had a leisurely drink and dinner at the FCC.

Frontline cocktail: chili and Kampot pepper-infused vodka,
passion fruit, lime and vanilla syrup

After dinner, we used the provide phone to check the tuk-tuk costs back to the hotel and crashed after day 1.

Tips:

•           When locals tell you it’s only raining a little, don’t believe them.  It’s really pouring.
•          Remember the not so great roads from this morning, in the rain its worse.  There are no rain gutters which mean it floods.  I mean really floods, hence our “swim”.
•          There are no street lights.  Just take a tuk-tuk.  I have traveled alone extensively, as has Sue, and neither of us felt safe walking the streets at night– rain or not.

Step count: 15,383 (11.94km)

  

Bangkok 2016

In June, I logged my first trip to Bangkok for 2016.  I usually would have done at least 1 by now but unfortunately the event that had been set for March was cancelled.  This trip was a bit special; it was all about bucket lists.   In all my trips here, this is the first time I stayed on and took advantage of being in Bangkok, the perfect hub to many countries I haven’t been to yet… but more on that later.  

We tried out a new business hotel, AVANI Riverside Bangkok.  The pool and rooftop bar were the highlights (although I only got to spend an hour at the pool).

I did get some free time on this trip so I finally had afternoon tea at the Author’s Lounge at the Mandarin Oriental.  For literary lovers, the Author’s Lounge will have you absolutely entranced.  It’s in the original building of the Mandarin Oriental hotel built in the 1870’s and was recently refurbished, keeping many of the original features (glass roof).  There are suites named after the writers that were once guests in this wing: Noel Coward, James Michener, Somerset Maugham and Joseph Conrad.  The walls are decorated with quotes and photos of Thailand from the days passed.  Even if you don’t have afternoon tea here, I recommend you come for a look around – the hotel is absolutely gorgeous (the lobby changes every time I pop my head in for a visit).

Mandarin Oriental lobby

The Author's Lounge 

We opted for 1 Western set and 1 Thai set to share.  We selected tea based our hostess’ recommendation of Le Grande Dame (140th anniversary special blend) and The Blanc Oriental.

Thai set

Western set

I was also thrilled to find our scones served with rose petal jam.  Short story is, I brought back a jar with me from Hong Kong and hid it in the back of the fridge.  MrH discovered it and within a week it was gone!  I have no plans to head to Hong Kong in the near future so I thought it was a lost cause but here it was!  In Bangkok, they jar it for you on request so I placed an order straight away and came back later that evening to pick it up.  Oh happy days!      

I love this quote.

I also ate some yummy Thai (and Japanese ) food and squeezed in 2 foot massages (new place!) = success. 

Heaven.

I am not 100% when my next Bangkok trip will be due some company reorganising but I hope it will be soon.  (Sad note of “see you later” to our MedEd team  as it was – boo!) In the meantime, I will be dreaming of a Mango Frostie…   

Last selfie - miss these faces!